Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
